SwitchMote is a wireless light switch controller that replaces traditional mechanical switches and allows wireless control up to two AC loads. SwitchMotes can be independent of each other or they can be linked in such a way that when a button is pressed one or more SwitchMotes can turn their loads ON/OFF (via SYNC-ing).

What is SwitchMote PSU?

SwitchMote PSU  is the power supply side of the SwitchMote which allows wireless control of a single 16A relay, or up to two 10A relays.

Assembly steps

Before you assemble or use any SwitchMote variant please see this page and disclaimer.

Always solder components from smallest to largest. Start by soldering the MOV (blue through hole component). Then solder the terminal header and make sure the leads access terminals are to the exterior of the board. Finally trim the leads as neat and flat to the PCB as possible.

Prepare the male and female headers for mating with Moteino. Cut the provided kit headers into these segments: 1×7 and 1×13 male; 1×6, 1×7 and 1×13 female. Each time you cut a female you lose a position so to cut the 1×7 you must cut at the 8th position. Trim the excess plastic on the female headers with an utility knife. Note: the photo below shows the older R2 PSU, this is for reference only, the important part here is the headers:Insert the headers in the SwitchMote PCB to align them and then solder the male headers on the Moteino first. Then solder the Moteino 1×6 female FTDI header on the TOP of the PCB, see photo, also a good time to solder the wire antenna. Then proceed to solder the female headers on the SwitchMote while using the Moteino as align helper.

Next up is soldering the relay(s) and the RECOM power supply. If you have the single 16A relay, solder the RECOM power supply first, then cut the extra relay pins (cut them as low/flat as possible) and direct the other pins into the “Relay 1” slot as shown in the photos below. Insert the DC side first then use a screwdriver to help with slightly bending the pins on the other side to fit the holes:

If you have the 10A relays, solder the relays first then the RECOM power supply.

Finally trim all the leads flat and secure the antenna with a bit of tape. Then attach the PSU cover plate if  was included in the kit (it’s optional with the PSU). You may/should test the PSU side if possible with a polarized power cable, insert the HOT into the “H” terminal and the NEUTRAL in the “N” terminal. The PWR LED should come on and power the Moteino (if any). You can then load a sketch and control the D7 and D3 pins on the Moteino which will control the two relays. Note – the photos below show the older R2 PSU but the relevant part here is soldering the large components and headers and trimming the solder joints flat. When you’re done use the provided spacers and screws to attach the lasercut cover on the PSU side (you may receive a clear cover and 4x black spacers and screws instead):

If you only have the SwitchMote PSU, then you are basically finished at this point.
The second part is assembly of the front button PCB and mating with the PSU.

If you chose the PIR sensor option you will get the sensor rather than the middle button. You should mount the sensor directly on the PCB instead of the middle button, along with the provided 10K pullup resistor. Also the faceplate will match the sensor cutout. The red LED will indicate when motion is detected, and the green LED is left unused, you may use it for other purposes.


Insert the buttons, resistors, and LEDs on the SwitchMote Shield. Make sure the buttons are inserted flat with the PCB. Make sure the spacers are on the LEDs before soldering. Make sure the LEDs are inserted the right way and the resistors are in the right places, see the photos. Also solder the RST switch (bend leads to fit in the holes). If the front plate did not come with a cutout for it, you can make one or a small pin hole with a drill, just enough to access it in case you need to reset the SwitchMote. When everything is ready to solder, add the button caps and use the front cover as a guide to align the LEDs and buttons and ensure the buttons can be pressed easily. Then use some small clamps and solder everything on the bottom. Finally trim the leads flat.

Next prepare to mate the PSU with the Shield. You will need to cut another few male headers: two 1×2, 1×5, 1×6. Mate the two parts together, ensure there is clearange between the two PCBs (no leads being close to each other, otherwise trim them down). Solder as seen in photos, when finished trim the excess of these header pins.

Finally attach the front cover with hot glue. Hold it down with clamps if necessary. You may want to add some electrical tape around the PSU side.

Your SwitchMote is now assembled, you may proceed to programming with an FTDI Adapter.

Once programmed, pressing the buttons should switch the LED states and the middle button should control relay1, top button should control relay2 (if installed), these are indicated on the PSU cover plate.

When this is all done, your SwitchMote is ready to replace a regular light switch. See the main install example page for how this might be done.