I'd like to run Moteino from 2 Lithium AAA cells because these have plenty of power and fit nicely inside a 1" PVC tube. However, with the MCP1703 LDO, there is more voltage drop than I'd like. Looking at the high level circuit of the MCP1703 (and its low quiescent current), it seems to me that connecting the battery supply to both the PWR and the 3.3V pins shouldn't cause any problem with the 1703 and eliminates the dropout voltage.
Does any one have any experience with running Moteino from two AAA (or AA) cells? And how have you hooked them up?
Tom
PS: I'd rather not unsolder the MCP1703...
You could use a small LiPoly instead which gives you plenty of head room.
Also at 3v you are grossly overclocking the 16mhz Moteino. You could change the fuse to run on the internal 8mhz oscillator instead but you should also desolder the regulator.
As already mentioned from Felix, I think the best way would be if you remove the regulator and change the frequency to 8MHz. I have running some Moteinos in this configuration with 2xAA batteries since several months without problems.
Go LiPo!
Quote from: Felix on October 25, 2014, 10:33:17 AM
You could use a small LiPoly instead which gives you plenty of head room.
Also at 3v you are grossly overclocking the 16mhz Moteino. You could change the fuse to run on the internal 8mhz oscillator instead but you should also desolder the regulator.
The last thing I want is a rechargeable battery. I want to deploy these units in the field (quite literally) and forget about them for 2-4 years. I also want them to stand up to harsh weather conditions, although not as severe as Michigan ;) hence the choice of Li FeS2. A couple of AAA batteries will give me 1250mAh capacity, operate as low as -40C, have LONG shelf life, and, as I said, will easily fit in a PVC/Copper tube with a Moteino on one end and my sensors on the other. Also, a couple of fresh batteries will have an open circuit voltage of ~3.6V and, while operating an active Moteino, drops down to about 3.2V nominal.
I do like your suggestion about dropping to 8Mhz as this should be plenty of performance for these applications although 3.2V at the processor would be better than running at 3.7V at the PWR pin with 0.63V dropout at the regulator.
Also, I agree about pulling the regulator from the board. I had overlooked the fact that it is going to try to drive the output to 3.3V and can't so the current draw will be higher than quiescent due to this (as shown in the Ground Current curve, figure 2-4, in the MCP1703 spec).
Regarding changing the frequency to 8MHz, you say I could "change the fuse". This sounds pretty drastic and permanent. Is it? And, if the base frequency is changed, do the standard delay(), millis(), etc still work properly or do these need to be scaled???
Thanks for the suggestions,
Tom
Quote from: Spexx on October 25, 2014, 03:25:46 PM
As already mentioned from Felix, I think the best way would be if you remove the regulator and change the frequency to 8MHz. I have running some Moteinos in this configuration with 2xAA batteries since several months without problems.
Two questions:
1. Do you use wireless programming to update your code? If so, did you need to make changes to the bootloader?
2. How did you change to 8MHz? (new resonator, change to prescaler, or fuse change to set clock to internal 8MHz RC clock)
Tom
To your questions:
1. I don't have tested the wireless programming with the 8MHz clock, but I think there shouldn't be any differences because there are no changes to the bootloader needed.
2. I have only changed the fuses (low:0xE2, high:0xDA, ext:0x07) to set the clock to internal 8MHz and I have also disabled the BOD (if I remember me correct, the RFM-module will work down to approx. 2.4V).
I have running a Moteino with 8MHz and with a humidity/temperatur sensor (SHT15) since May '14 with 2xAA batteries. At the beginning the voltage was at 3.31V, and now 5 months later the voltage is at 3.17V. The Moteino is sleeping all the time and will be only waked up every 40 seconds to send the humidity/temperature to the base station. I think it should work furthermore for several months :)
Regards,
Christian
Christian,
thank you for the feedback. I appreciate it. To clarify, with the changes you made, do delay() and millis() still work properly without any code changes? Maybe with reduced accuracy, but that's ok for me.
I've used other wireless monitors with Lithium AA batteries, with updates every ten minutes (our weather doesn't change THAT rapidly :)
and had batteries last for over 4 years in relatively severe conditions (+118 degrees F). Ironically, solder joints fail before the batteries do!
I may just put a voltage boost circuit in so that I can run at full 3.3V at the processor and not worry about any code changes or compatibility issues, but I do thank you for the fuse settings to enable 8MHz. This will help me and others, I'm sure.
Tom
Hi Tom,
yes sure, delay() and millis() will work properly without changing the code. The only thing you have to do is to change the f_cpu setting. In case of using the Arduino IDE, you will find in the program directory under \hardware\arduino a file named "boards.txt". You can add another board for the Moteino, where you can set the clock speed to 8MHz.
For example, I have added following lines:
Moteino8.name=Moteino@8MHz (D9-LED, BOD disabled)
Moteino8.upload.protocol=arduino
Moteino8.upload.maximum_size=32256
Moteino8.upload.speed=57600
Moteino8.bootloader.low_fuses=0xE2
Moteino8.bootloader.high_fuses=0xDA
Moteino8.bootloader.extended_fuses=0x07
Moteino8.bootloader.path=optiboot
Moteino8.bootloader.file=DualOtiboot_atmega328_1k_d9LED_debugOFF.hex
Moteino8.bootloader.unlock_bits=0x3F
Moteino8.bootloader.lock_bits=0x0F
Moteino8.build.mcu=atmega328p
Moteino8.build.f_cpu=8000000L
Moteino8.build.core=arduino
Moteino8.build.variant=standard
If you start the Arduino IDE, you will find this new board. So you only have to choose the correct board before uploading a new sketch and delay() and millis() will work as before. :)
But as already mentioned in this thread, first of all you have to change the fuses.
Hope this will help you.
Christian
Cool! Thanks! I'll try it out, maybe by this weekend, but, because of all the new ideas I have with Moteino, my project list is pretty huge!
Thank you for taking the time to answer.
Tom
I too have been interested in running off 1 or 2 AA/AAA cells. I ran across the LTC3525 on JeeLab's ... http://jeelabs.org/2010/09/06/running-off-a-single-aa-battery/
Quote from: TacticalSnack on November 15, 2014, 08:12:57 PM
I too have been interested in running off 1 or 2 AA/AAA cells. I ran across the LTC3525 on JeeLab's ... http://jeelabs.org/2010/09/06/running-off-a-single-aa-battery/
I agree a booster is necessary if you're trying to work with a single 1.5V battery. If I can fit a 3V source, however, then dropping back to 8Mhz works for me and is a much lower cost and more efficient solution. If you need a booster, however, the LTC3525 seems VERY expensive to me. My quick glance at Digikey prices this higher than the AtMega328P! Alternatives I've looked at are: NCP1402 and MCP1640.
Tom
Maybe this could be of interest? I just ordered 2.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Input-0-8-3V-Output-3-3V-Step-UP-Power-Converter-Voltage-Module-RF-/231083181020?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35cda183dc (http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Input-0-8-3V-Output-3-3V-Step-UP-Power-Converter-Voltage-Module-RF-/231083181020?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35cda183dc)
I've had very bad luck with such ebay no name boosters. They just don't work or behave very erratically.
I see the one you shared has a LED onboard?!
Quote from: Saxx on November 16, 2014, 02:14:35 PM
Maybe this could be of interest? I just ordered 2.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Input-0-8-3V-Output-3-3V-Step-UP-Power-Converter-Voltage-Module-RF-/231083181020?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35cda183dc (http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Input-0-8-3V-Output-3-3V-Step-UP-Power-Converter-Voltage-Module-RF-/231083181020?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35cda183dc)
Well, that is a choice. I was specifically referring to the booster ICs themselves and making my own, when the need arises. As Felix points out, some of the no-name modules are poor quality.
The chips are SOT packages which are fairly easy to hand solder (for those of us who aren't in mass-production like Felix) and the rest of the parts are low cost and readily available.
Well if you find something good keep us updated :)
But make sure the booster is very low quiescent current, otherwise it defeats the purpose of low power.
Yeah, I see the LED now... Well, I have a few Arduino Pro Minis that I use, with a power LED. I have just removed the LED with a small screwdriver, and that works just fine. I'll let you know how these behave when I have tested them.
Quote from: Spexx on October 25, 2014, 03:25:46 PM
As already mentioned from Felix, I think the best way would be if you remove the regulator and change the frequency to 8MHz. I have running some Moteinos in this configuration with 2xAA batteries since several months without problems.
I have custom build Moteinos w/o regulator and with 8MHz resonator running on 2xAA batteries very well.
Also I have created a low power Moteino which runs from 1 AA battery :)
Quote from: ieris on November 17, 2014, 02:34:05 AM
I have custom build Moteinos w/o regulator and with 8MHz resonator running on 2xAA batteries very well.
Also I have created a low power Moteino which runs from 1 AA battery :)
I'm curious as to why you have a resonator instead of using the internal 8MHz RC Oscillator?
Tom
I had some good luck with running Moteino (on stock 16Mhz) on single AAA battery for about 6-8 months (transmitting temp/humidity date about every 5 minutes). I did have to buy 3.3V step up booster from Sparkfun for this tho... Without booster and voltage regulator it can probably last a year. I'm building a custom board similar to Moteino but designed to run of 3V coin (it has jumper to bypass 3.3v voltage reg) cell to see if it works...
Quote from: TomWS on November 17, 2014, 12:56:55 PM
Quote from: ieris on November 17, 2014, 02:34:05 AM
I have custom build Moteinos w/o regulator and with 8MHz resonator running on 2xAA batteries very well.
Also I have created a low power Moteino which runs from 1 AA battery :)
I'm curious as to why you have a resonator instead of using the internal 8MHz RC Oscillator?
Tom
Because of using serial communication.
Quote from: ieris on November 17, 2014, 02:41:51 PM
Because of using serial communication.
Ah, ok. Makes sense if you need high speed UART comms on a low power device. ;)
Hi,
I plan to use a MCP1640 with 1xAA battery to run my Atmega328p with RFM69 and IR-Diode or 2xRelays. Does anybody have experience with the MCP1640?
Would it be sufficient for my application?
I would appreciate to get a feedback.
Quote from: ulli on November 30, 2014, 08:29:26 AM
Hi,
I plan to use a MCP1640 with 1xAA battery to run my Atmega328p with RFM69 and IR-Diode or 2xRelays. Does anybody have experience with the MCP1640?
Would it be sufficient for my application?
I would appreciate to get a feedback.
Must be ok, as I know Ray from opensprinkler using it in AASaver project.
And you can take a look at pololu - http://www.pololu.com/category/132/step-up-voltage-regulators (http://www.pololu.com/category/132/step-up-voltage-regulators)
I'm using LTC3525, as it has less components (was important for my project).
Quote from: ulli on November 30, 2014, 08:29:26 AM
Hi,
I plan to use a MCP1640 with 1xAA battery to run my Atmega328p with RFM69 and IR-Diode or 2xRelays. Does anybody have experience with the MCP1640?
Would it be sufficient for my application?
I would appreciate to get a feedback.
I've used the MCP1640 in a 2 cell boost configuration (3.0V->5V) and think that it is a fine boost circuit. Just bear in mind, boosting from 1.5V to 3.3V will almost triple the current drawn on the battery... A AAA battery has about 1200mA Hr, which will translate to about 400mAHr available at the Mote & peripherals...
Tom
Also mind that the MCP1640 can only deliver 100mA, and probably that's going to be at top efficiency, meaning VIN close to VOUT. Maybe that's why it's $0.68 in QTY of 1.
Hi,
sorry for the very late reply but I lost the thread...
I already built up a moteino clone with RFM69HW and a IR-Diode. I am running it with the LowPower Library to reduce the power consumption as good as possible.
The power supply is solved with the MCP1640 and 1xAA battery. Everything works fine so far. Hopefully it will run several month!
I will definitely will give a feedback!
But just a few questions regarding your comments for my low power application
* Isn't right, that to use a coin cell would not be better than my circuit because the coin cells do not have much capacity
220mAh for example (http://www.digitalsmarties.net/products/coin-cells)
* Do i really almost triple the current draw with a MCP1640? Is that your experience in such a configuration? The efficiency of the MCP1640 is not bad...
* I also think about reducing the current consumption by increasing the resistances of my pullup resistors..
Do you know the max resistance which I can use for SPI chip select pin of the RFM69 and the reset pin of the atmega328p and RFM69?
Best regards,
Ulli
Quote from: ulli on January 12, 2015, 04:04:57 PM
Hi,
sorry for the very late reply but I lost the thread...
I already built up a moteino clone with RFM69HW and a IR-Diode. I am running it with the LowPower Library to reduce the power consumption as good as possible.
The power supply is solved with the MCP1640 and 1xAA battery. Everything works fine so far. Hopefully it will run several month!
I will definitely will give a feedback!
But just a few questions regarding your comments for my low power application
* Isn't right, that to use a coin cell would not be better than my circuit because the coin cells do not have much capacity
220mAh for example (http://www.digitalsmarties.net/products/coin-cells)
The issue with coin cells is that they can not supply much in the way of surge power. In your waking state, even if you are drawing only 10-15 mA you will drain the coin cell rapidly, even if very low duty cycle.
Quote from: ulli on January 12, 2015, 04:04:57 PM
* Do i really almost triple the current draw with a MCP1640? Is that your experience in such a configuration? The efficiency of the MCP1640 is not bad...
If you factor 3.3V output / 1.5V input / 0.8 efficiency, you get 2.75 multiplier on the current drawn from the 1.5V source. Also, Felix's earlier point about the MCP1640 is valid, you need to take care (either with capacitors or reduced max load) not to exceed 100mA peak.
Quote from: ulli on January 12, 2015, 04:04:57 PM
* I also think about reducing the current consumption by increasing the resistances of my pullup resistors..
Do you know the max resistance which I can use for SPI chip select pin of the RFM69 and the reset pin of the atmega328p and RFM69?
I'm not sure the pull up resistor values will contribute much loss since they are active so rarely and the leakage current otherwise is nanoscopic... (I just coined that :-)
Further, I think there is already an internal pullup resistor on the reset line.
Tom
I'm actually taking a serious look at MCP1640 which has 100mA listed, but can do up to 4-800mA, see datasheet. I think if it's stable, it could replace the uber expensive LTC3525. Last time I bought a strip of 100xLTC3525 I spent about $340, still hurts.
Quote from: Felix on January 12, 2015, 06:35:21 PM
I'm actually taking a serious look at MCP1640 which has 100mA listed, but can do up to 4-800mA, see datasheet. I think if it's stable, it could replace the uber expensive LTC3525. Last time I bought a strip of 100xLTC3525 I spent about $340, still hurts.
One thing to watch for, Felix, is that the max current is usually the current into the inductor. If it's a boost converter, 800 mA can become no more than 100mA into Vout in a hurry! I think you know this, but with a 5:1 price difference, it's easy to forget :D
The one thing I DO like about the LTC3525, and you used this to advantage in the Power Shield, is the fact that Vin can be greater than Vout, something most boost converters can't deal with.
At this point, I've found the best and easiest implementation is running remote battery operated motes at 8MHz internal so I can run directly off 2X cylindrical cells, typically Lithium Iron Disulphide (AKA Eveready 'Utlimate' Lithium). I've found these to be the most reliable batteries over a wide temperature range with good life and power density.
It's also pretty easy to pull the MCP1703 from the Moteino board so I can drive the 3.3V pin directly.
Tom
The 800mA is mentioned in the DS - indeed an input current peak limit. But the MCP will exceed the LTC at load current, that is what surprised me. It can do up to 400mA no problem, see the first page and load current efficiency graph on page 2 (http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/20002234C.pdf). I analyzed the graphs and the MCP is as good or better than the LTC according to the DS. The quiescent current is almost the same, I think the LTC can do down to an absolute low quiescent current of 7uA whereas the MCP is 19uA. In shutdown the MCP is <1uA. The other feature of having a higher VIN than VOUT is not something I paid attention but I will need to study that. For now I need to order samples and make a PCB and play with these. The savings are incredible though.
I am finding that chinese LiPos underperform and dont work in very cold temps. They drop out at around 20F. That is surprising considering that Lipos are used in electric cars and other environments where extreme cold should be no problem. The chinese LiPo datasheets mention they work down to -20C which is verified to be false information, as usually is. See this sample datasheet, standard discharge rate of 0.2C, that is 200mA (far more than usually used in my motes): https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Batteries/UnionBattery-1000mAh.pdf
So sometimes we trust datasheets but as I thought I already learned, I find myself to keep getting burned with chinese products that are garbage. It feels like sabotage, seriously, especially after investing a lot of time and money in certain infrastructure. Lipos are still nice for being compact and flat and all that. For indoors they are great. The remaining problem is everybody is now used to the low prices on ebay and other places that sell chinese products and when presented with a better quality product at a higher price they throw their hands up in protest. Why is hardware so hard ... people don't get it.
Quote from: Felix on January 13, 2015, 09:32:34 AM
<...snip>
I am finding that chinese LiPos underperform and dont work in very cold temps. They drop out at around 20F. That is surprising considering that Lipos are used in electric cars and other environments where extreme cold should be no problem. The chinese LiPo datasheets mention they work down to -20C which is verified to be false information, as usually is. See this sample datasheet, standard discharge rate of 0.2C, that is 200mA (far more than usually used in my motes): https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Batteries/UnionBattery-1000mAh.pdf
So sometimes we trust datasheets but as I thought I already learned, I find myself to keep getting burned with chinese products that are garbage. It feels like sabotage, seriously, especially after investing a lot of time and money in certain infrastructure. Lipos are still nice for being compact and flat and all that. For indoors they are great. The remaining problem is everybody is now used to the low prices on ebay and other places that sell chinese products and when presented with a better quality product at a higher price they throw their hands up in protest. Why is hardware so hard ... people don't get it.
I wouldn't touch anything but a name brand LiPo. I'd definitely avoid an off-brand. These devices scare me to death and will only use them when there is no serious alternative - outdoors I'll mostly accept that I need primary cells and for interior battery backup situations I'll try to use SLA. It's only when I've GOT to fit a reasonably strong rechargeable into a small space will I consider LiPos, and only if they include the protection circuit (which any reputable battery supplier should).
When I was first looking into LiPos I did some research on safety. I found one report talking about safety in the RC industry. Expecting to find a few cases where there might have been a fire, I was stunned to see that the report had cited 177 cases of fire or explosion! Uh, I know RC industry is somewhat big and certainly rough on equipment, but this, alone, convinced me to treat these with TLC. Also, having recently purchased some from Sparkfun, the packaging and warning labels they used looked like HAZMAT rating 4!
Tom
The LiPos from adafruit/SF and other popular places are the same as I sourced from china, different shapes and sizes and seem to have very similar "protection circuits". I don't have empirical data to test these circuits and I did not really research if those circuits are legit or not. My guess is they will fail in certain scenarios, I think we can safely assume that instead of giving the benefit of the doubt (we're talking china here, level of trust 0). I don't know if adafruit and others would ever reveal disaster scenarios they hear from their customers - if that has ever happened, my guess is not. They would be ethically forced to stop selling them knowing they are bad and be stuck with potentially thousands of cells in stock (they do buy in thousands to get a decent margin). And they would scare off the maker industry away from LiPos if they would do that. But again... its pure speculation, no data to back that up. I would still expect someone out of thousands of customers and cells sold to have some kind of bad/scary/disaster experience, even if not a house burned but 1 explosion under reasonable conditions is enough to make a big deal.
The HAZMAT labels are regulations they are forced to use, and USPS can't ship loose Lipos.
I have a load of lipos I sourced from china, now I am stuck with them not able to sell them because of all the extra regulations for batteries and low temp no-performance I've observed. I've considered UPS but it's just a big unknown so they are basically a lost investment of a few hundred $.
Anyway, if anyone wants to buy a bunch of LiPos that are perfectly fine in other than extreme temperature conditions (verified 1500mAh Lipos that are more compact that anything afafruit/SF can offer), at a better price than those guys, I can ship UPS, you can contact me. These fit perfectly in the MotionOLED Mote kits I make. I should post this on the blog too...
I did some power consumption calculations with the result of 1,6 years lifetime of an Moteino clone with IR-Diode:
RFM69 is partially in idle and listening mode. Info from DS
(idle 1004ms and listening 2 ms)
--> 0,041 mA/h
Atmega @8MHz partly in sleep and idle mode
(awake 24 times a day for 1s)
(Idle ~ 4mA and PowerDown ~35µA)
--> 0,036 mA/h
MCP1640 step up
--> 80% efficiency, therefore overall current consumption + 20%
IR Diode
--> negligible small
Overall summary: 0,092 mA/h → 1,6 years with a 1200mA Battery
I am pretty surprised about that result. Can anybody give a feedback if that is plausible?
Quote from: ulli on January 14, 2015, 09:16:50 AM
I did some power consumption calculations with the result of 1,6 years lifetime of an Moteino clone with IR-Diode:
RFM69 is partially in idle and listening mode. Info from DS
(idle 1004ms and listening 2 ms)
--> 0,041 mA/h
Atmega @8MHz partly in sleep and idle mode
(awake 24 times a day for 1s)
(Idle ~ 4mA and PowerDown ~35µA)
--> 0,036 mA/h
MCP1640 step up
--> 80% efficiency, therefore overall current consumption + 20%
IR Diode
--> negligible small
Overall summary: 0,092 mA/h → 1,6 years with a 1200mA Battery
I am pretty surprised about that result. Can anybody give a feedback if that is plausible?
I see a couple items missing from your calculations:
Transmit power - pretty negligible with 1 hour between transmissions...
Quiescent current of MCP1640 (19uA)
Current multiplication due to step up (I'm assuming 1.5->3.3V) (2.75 multiplier)
However, even with these changes, I come up with roughly 122uA average which will (theoretically) give you 1.122 years with 1200mA battery.
I don't use listen mode so I don't have any empirical data to confirm your data (or DS). I do think that a 2ms listen time is pretty worthless. What I do to send data to the mote is queue up requests to motes in the gateway and tell the mote that the gateway has something for it on the next Ack. The mote sees the ack and stays awake in receive mode for two seconds, giving the gateway time to start a 'conversation'. The mote stays awake until all data has been sent or the mote suspends the conversation until the next cycle. Not immediate data out to mote, but reliable and no wasted power...
Tom
Thanks for you remarks!
Regarding the listening mode....I checked again the DS....I thought the listening mode ist active as default...it's unfortunately not :-[
I calculated the consumption with just the idle Mode of the rfm....got a lifetime of 3 days....damn!
Isn't there a chance to get a rfm running from battery?
Do you have any proposals? How are you running it?
Quote from: ulli on January 14, 2015, 04:23:25 PM
Thanks for you remarks!
Regarding the listening mode....I checked again the DS....I thought the listening mode ist active as default...it's unfortunately not :-[
I calculated the consumption with just the idle Mode of the rfm....got a lifetime of 3 days....damn!
Isn't there a chance to get a rfm running from battery?
Do you have any proposals? How are you running it?
I don't understand your question. I'm running several from batteries...
I am currently building up a moteino clone with a infrared diode.
The moteino should control my TV..... The moteino gets his commands over the rfm69. (Radio/IR Gateway)
But in that case I do not know how to run this configuration from a battery because the rfm needs so much power in listening mode...
What are your moteinos do in your network?
Quote from: ulli on January 14, 2015, 05:20:19 PM
I am currently building up a moteino clone with a infrared diode.
The moteino should control my TV..... The moteino gets his commands over the rfm69. (Radio/IR Gateway)
But in that case I do not know how to run this configuration from a battery because the rfm needs so much power in listening mode...
If I understand your application correctly, you'll have a moteino in the same room as your TV and it drives an IR diode to control it. The mote receives commands over its RFM69 rf connection and sends the appropriate IR modulation sequence to the diode. I have two questions:
1. Where does the RFM69 rf signal come from? - how does that transmitter 'know' what to send to the mote?
2. Why does the TV controller mote need to be battery operated? It sounds as if it's a stationary device, is it physically isolated from a power source (AC outlet)?
I'm still struggling with your comment that battery operation is not possible, but, I suspect, your application needs more 'on' time than a battery will easily allow. The KEY question you need to answer is: What kind of responsiveness does your TV controller mote need? If instantaneous, then, um, you might have some 'challenges'. If you can tolerate seconds of delay, then there are some 'tricks' you might be able to do - those 'tricks' would rely on Listen mode... Another pertinent factor would be how many other motes would you like to deploy in other applications. This is relevant because it's all about 'traffic'. Traffic accomplishes things at the cost of battery life...
Now, if your TV controller Mote is controlled by a server that is handling TV recording schedules, then we've got a scenario we can deal with! :D
Quote from: ulli on January 14, 2015, 05:20:19 PM
What are your moteinos do in your network?
Um, it's a long list if you want to know ALL the motes in the 'plan'...
Right now, it's a short list. I have deployed three motes but they don't have a gateway to talk to since I've had a, shall we say, 'set back' in the gateway deployment project...
But, I think your interest in what motes are battery operated, correct?
The battery operated motes are mostly deployed outdoors:
Soil Moisture Sensor - many of these so my server can decide if it's time to water...
Liquid Level Sensor - two of these - measures water height in my two water features, so I can autofill them.
Irrigation Valve Mote - for the landscaping sprinkler system and autofillers.
TH_Mote - battery operated Temperature/Humidity sensor that I drop wherever I think it's worthwhile measuring that stuff...
I have a bunch of Landscape Light motes, but these all run off low voltage wiring, so not battery operated.
The Workshop has Dust Collector controller and a BUNCH of current monitor sensors that determine that a piece of equipment in my shop is turned on so the corresponding blast gate is opened and the dust collector is turned on (or off if nothing's been active for some time).
There are also a few motes that are variants of the current sensors to monitor various pieces of equipment (eg well pump, septic pump, etc) to make sure something is/isn't running properly. These, obviously, are not battery operated.
Eventually will deploy mailbox monitor and driveway traffic vehicle sensor, but probably won't get these out this year. Both of those will be battery operated (and VERY long range).
Tom