I was thinking of using a connector header rather than solder the LCD directly to the board. It would result in an 11.1 mm board-to-board gap rather than the 2mm gap if I solder directly. I'm thinking the flexibility would be worth the lost space.
I'll need to use standoffs to support it if I do.
Felix, can you please tell me the size plastic screw you include in the kit (#4-40, #6-32, #8-32) so that I can order some standoffs and screws that are the same size? One corner of the LCD looks like it shares a hole with the four mounting standoffs while the other three are unused.
They are metric M2.5.
I would actually just pick something that fits on the two inward holes, you really don't need all four once the header is in place at the bottom.
I didn't solder the LCD to the Mightyhat and wanted to minimize the height.
90 degree headers were used on the LCD and Mightyhat.
The headers are connected with a jumper created with two female headers.
This gives about 4 mm board to board space, but does extend out the side.
One screw and the headers/jumper is adequate to hold the LCD in place.
A 4x4x2 PVC junction box works nicely as an enclosure.
Nice, getting creative works very well most times :)