Best wiring connectors to use for making panel connections?

[WhiteHare]

I'm building a simple Moteino-based remote control.  I'm at the stage where I'm putting it into a project box, along with a battery.  I want to put a button and an LED on the lid of the project box.  Now, I could just solder the moteino wires to the battery wires, the button wires, and the LED wires, but that starts to hamstring me if I later want to remove the Moteino from the project box to solder on more things.  What I'd RATHER do is use some small, simple connectors that I can snap together for a good connection: one for the battery, one for the button, and one for the LED.  The question is: what kind are best for this purpose?  JST connectors?  Micro JST connectors?  El wire connectors?  Or what?  I want them to be reasonably tiny, so as not to take up too much space in the project box.  Presently I'm thinking of maybe this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M5AHF0Z/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=APHB2NWNKDSBL

or possibly this:

http://a.co/d7zkpSP

What I know for sure is that regular dupont connections just don't cut the mustard.  Dupont connections tend to be too loosey-goosey.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

[perky]

I use JST connectors, either SH series for space saving, PH for higher currents without a locking mechanism (although they do stay in place quite well), or PA series for a locking version. Get a decent crimping tool (best one for hand crimping by far is PA-09. The cheap 'single action' ones are just rubbish, seriously don't waste your money on them) and you're away.

I'd also consider light pipes for the LEDs, for example I use VCC light pipes with the RTN150 grommet:
http://www.newark.com/pdfs/datasheets/Visual_Comm/LPC_Litepipe.pdf

Also If you can place your PCB about 5mm below the inside face of the box you can use the smallest light pipe, a surface mout 0805 dome type LED (to direct all light into into a narrow cone upwards that the light pipe captures), and a PCB mounted push button with an extended actuator to stick slightly proud of the box when assembled. Then all that's left is a JST PA connector on the side for the battery (they're of course polarized, and locking, and less than 5mm tall for the horizontal version).

PA-09 crimping tool:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxMYjJ4Lwi0

Mark.

[WhiteHare]

Is it better to crimp my own parts, as you seem to be suggesting, rather than buy the pre-crimped pigtails?  I suppose one advantage to that would be that I could use my own wire, whereas some of the wire that comes from China as part of something is almost garbage.  For instance, it looks like there tends to be a lot of iron contamination in quite a lot of chinese "copper" wire, leading to actual rust that can eventually destroy a connection.