Switchmote using GE Add-On Switch case

[zingbat]

Hi Felix,

I have been thinking about how to get a Switchmote to blend naturally in to my house. I had a bit of a crazy idea: what if the form factor of the board could fit in this GE Add-On switch case?

Product:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RKJS8MQ/

It's $19, which isn't ideal, but is still probably much cheaper than low volume injection molds with multiple parts.

I can post some more pictures of the inside, but basically it's easy to get in to and perhaps enough room for the full Switchmote setup. Here's a picture someone already took of the default PCB:

https://imgur.com/gallery/MFaE9

Anyways, just an idea..

Thanks!

[Felix]

Hey zingbat,
I appreciate any ideas. I have put a lot of thought into what I can make SwitchMote be and how it would look.
The main driver has been the form factor of the product itself (kit vs fully assembled) and having had to make it through hole parts + a Moteino.
This works well and actually:

• it is the same size or smaller than the type of smart switch you linked
• once installed it looks quite nice and other than the "boxy" buttons it looks good (well at least IMO and perhaps the many folks who bought and use them)

I have some interesting ideas for the future. Let's see if I can make it happen. Smaller size, nicer interface, replace the buttons with something more appealing and flat, reduce mounting hardware to 1-2 screws, design a nice 3d printed enclosure. Lots of research, testing and time/money investment to make something like that happen. But always on the edge trying to improve.

I've been using terminal headers and they are pretty much there to stay in the design. I am forced to use certified PSUs which take quite a bit of space on the PCB and are the biggest component that then dictate where relay(s) will have to be placed, leaving only so much space for a Moteino or the MCU/DC side electronics. So the overall form factor will remain the same or very similar to what it is now on the PSU side. On the button side there is more flexibility.

This discussion is open and anyone can share their thoughts and feedback/input.

[sparky]

UL certified would be great but the expense might not be worth it for you.

[Felix]

UL certified would be great but the expense might not be worth it for you.

You bet, both ways. BUUUT: I've always had that wish and I tend to get most wishes fulfilled. Partly because I try to stay realistic 
It might happen, but I can't promise. I need help with that. This would then be I think the first "open" smart light switch, completely customizable by the end user, available at HomeDepot .

SwitchMote has been in my dreams long before I started LowPowerLab in 2012. I envisioned a connected house without wiring, with switches and devices that I can control from a secure non-cloud app. Back then I had no idea if that dream can ever become reality - there were no smart switches (other than the x10 type and other university research exotic stuff). My idea was to make a switch that is arduino based and accessible to those beginners trying to learn to solder and program a device that actually makes your life better.

[ChemE]

I worry about the 0.0001% chance that I somehow burn my house down switching 110V loads that my insurance company would do the following: "Oh Chinese relay, no UL listing...settlement = $0".  I second the desire for a UL Listed totally open means of switching 110V @ 15A.  The products currently on the market suck, are not open, and are not DIY-friendly.

[perky]

I worry about the 0.0001% chance that I somehow burn my house down switching 110V loads that my insurance company would do the following: "Oh Chinese relay, no UL listing...settlement = $0".  I second the desire for a UL Listed totally open means of switching 110V @ 15A.  The products currently on the market suck, are not open, and are not DIY-friendly.

You're not kidding, look at the installation video! Twisting neutral wires together held together by some kind of nut is common practice in the USA? I'm surprised you manage to get insurance at all!

[Felix]

That's why I chose to not go chi-cheap and use listed components as much as possible, most important being the AC-DC PSU, relays, fuse/MOV. And of course all genuine brand name components on the DC side as well.

Since I first and foremost design these products to use in MY OWN HOUSE, my philosophy is worry about safety before cost.

We are still at just revision 2 of this product and there are many out there. I have only had 1 instance where a fuse was blown by an end user, I haven't heard of any serious fire/incidents or issues. Given that all these were kits soldered by the end user (some assembled by me on special request for private clients) that's pretty good IMO.

For the next SwitchMote I plan to:

• reduce consumer assembly to a minimum (just the large through hole parts - PSU/relays/terminal, mating the 2 front and back without headers, adding enclosure - with minimal screws and hopefully no spacers).
• add extra safety features including a 2oz copper standard PCB, perhaps 2mm thickness if warranted.