First, cut the headers for the Moteino from the provided female header. You will need two 1×13 (for Moteino), one 1×4 (for OLED) and 1×3 (for PIR motion sensor). See image below for how to do this correctly. Clean the cuts to make sure the header will fit the case:
Continue by soldering the headers and components to the main PCB in order shown in the photo below (small to large/tall). You will need to bend the pins of the switch at a 90 degree angle before soldering it. The LED is polarized! – the longer leg goes to “+” on the PCB.
If you plan to use a Panasonic PIR instead of the regular HC-SR501, do not solder the 1×3 PIR header, the sensor will instead be soldered directly to the PCB. Make sure everything is nice and flush with the PCB as this is important when putting everything in the case – when finished your PCB should look like this:
When done soldering make sure to trim the excess leads, pins and headers on the bottom of the PCB with a flush wire cutter. The bottom should be as smooth as possible to avoid damaging the LiPo battery. You may also want to add some masking tape or thin padding between the battery and the PCB to avoid any damage.
Split the male header in two 1×13 strips and solder them to the Moteino. Do not solder anything to the 1×6 FTDI header – you will program the Moteino through the USB once it is plugged into the MotionOLEDMote PCB. Also solder the antenna below the surface of the Moteino so it can be routed outside the case through the back cover (you can also keep antenna wire inside the case but performance will suffer the more wrapped it is).
Start assembling the case as sholwn below, attach battery and fit all the sides together, leave the front cover last.
Acrylic is brittle! Avoid putting too much pressure – use circular motions to mate two parts rather than forcing them into each other until they break. The material thickness varies between batches and making a perfect cut is impossible. Handle the case tabs with care and don’t apply a lot of pressure.
The final part is inserting the PIR sensor or the OLED.
Handle the OLED with care, the glass cover can break easily if mistreated and render the OLED screen useless. Also the acrylic cover for the cutout can break if forced too much, so handle it with care. You can always switch between them and change the sketch and change the behavior of this kit.
Finally – fit the front cover on top allowing the LED to protrude through the LED cutout. The enclosure parts are lasercut in such a way that they should fit together tightly, and that may be enough to hold the case in 1 piece, but you may add clear tape to reinforce the case, this will allow taking it apart later if required. If you want, you can also permanently bond a subset or the whole case with WELD-NO #3 Acrylic Cement, this provides a strong molecular bond. When you’re done you should have something looking like this:
If you plan to use a Panasonic PIR instead of the regular HC-SR501, do not solder the 1×3 PIR header, the sensor will instead be soldered directly to the PCB. A required acrylic standoff and the correct front cover will be provided with the Panasonic PIRs if/when these will be offered in the kit. Here’s what that assembly would look like:
For the Panasonic PIRs, it’s highly recommended to use the 3.3V
Moteino regulated source instead of the battery for their power input, cut the default and resolder the proper jumper like this:
Lastly, the antenna wire should be peeked through the available slot on the back cover. For best signal the antenna should be kept straight rather than curled, as shown below. The cutout side slots should be set next to the buzzer and/or BME280 sensor (if any).