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#1
CurrentRanger / Re: Touch buttons stoped worki...
Last post by holziholz - November 02, 2026, 01:13:15 AMYes, saved the current_fw file from the USB folder, before updateing and later flashed it back.
Since I have a second Ranger available, I checked the touch sensor reading there as well. And the second ranger has an idle value of around 250 instead of 500 as the failing one. But I see no way how I could impact the measured values to get the buttons working again.
Since I have a second Ranger available, I checked the touch sensor reading there as well. And the second ranger has an idle value of around 250 instead of 500 as the failing one. But I see no way how I could impact the measured values to get the buttons working again.
#2
CurrentRanger / Re: Powering the Current Range...
Last post by Felix - October 30, 2026, 07:49:54 PM1. No red is carried by Digikey that I could find. A fully assembled harness is here, or a battery can be purchased with the kit.
2. Fixed, thanks.
3. Use at your own risk. The "SI" for this guide means if you plug in USB it will try to charge the attached "battery".
4. Nothing unclear about 5VDC, everyone gets it. No changes.
2. Fixed, thanks.
3. Use at your own risk. The "SI" for this guide means if you plug in USB it will try to charge the attached "battery".
4. Nothing unclear about 5VDC, everyone gets it. No changes.
#3
CurrentRanger / Re: Touch buttons stoped worki...
Last post by Felix - October 30, 2026, 06:48:30 PMSo you reverted to the original firmware 1.16 and it no longer works?
(Meaning you saved your actual firmware off the device before replacing it)
(Meaning you saved your actual firmware off the device before replacing it)
#4
CurrentRanger / Powering the Current Ranger
Last post by Lawrence Joy - October 30, 2026, 03:44:35 PM1. Under the "Power, battery & charging" heading the picture of the JST plug shows a black and red wire. However, your link to Digi-Key JST ASPHSPH24K152 is only a black wire, what is the part number for a red wire?
2. Under the picture is a warning that says "...exercise case...". Think this should be "exercise care".
3. The 2nd paragraph states "The CurrentRanger requires a standard Lithium Polymer/Lithium battery that charges to 4.2 V". What if I want to use an analog DC power supply set to 4.2 V? The common of the power supply output is not connected to the mains ground or neutral line, it is floating.
4. You need to use proper SI nomenclature. There is always a space between the value (the number) and the following SI letter symbol. And no attachment is made to SI letter symbols. That is "5VDC" should be "5 V DC". Refer to ANSI/IEEE/ASTM SI 10, NIST Special Publication 811 (a no cost PDF download), or ISO/IEC 80000-1.
2. Under the picture is a warning that says "...exercise case...". Think this should be "exercise care".
3. The 2nd paragraph states "The CurrentRanger requires a standard Lithium Polymer/Lithium battery that charges to 4.2 V". What if I want to use an analog DC power supply set to 4.2 V? The common of the power supply output is not connected to the mains ground or neutral line, it is floating.
4. You need to use proper SI nomenclature. There is always a space between the value (the number) and the following SI letter symbol. And no attachment is made to SI letter symbols. That is "5VDC" should be "5 V DC". Refer to ANSI/IEEE/ASTM SI 10, NIST Special Publication 811 (a no cost PDF download), or ISO/IEC 80000-1.
#5
CurrentRanger / Touch buttons stoped working
Last post by holziholz - October 30, 2026, 05:09:25 AMHello,
I have a strange problem with my current ranger. Updated from 1.16 to 1.17 and the touch buttons stopped working. I can't switch the measurement range or functions like LPF anymore via the touch buttons. The ranger itself works fine. I can change the range through the UART interface as well.
When printing out the touchpad serial output debug info I can see that the buttons reacting. The idle value is around 500, while touching a button will increase the value for this button to 1000.
I also tried resetting the runtime settings, downgrading the FW to 1.16 an 1.15 and of course did a full power reset by disconnecting the battery for a minute. Still the ranger wont change the range when I press the touchpads anymore.
Any ideas?
I have a strange problem with my current ranger. Updated from 1.16 to 1.17 and the touch buttons stopped working. I can't switch the measurement range or functions like LPF anymore via the touch buttons. The ranger itself works fine. I can change the range through the UART interface as well.
When printing out the touchpad serial output debug info I can see that the buttons reacting. The idle value is around 500, while touching a button will increase the value for this button to 1000.
I also tried resetting the runtime settings, downgrading the FW to 1.16 an 1.15 and of course did a full power reset by disconnecting the battery for a minute. Still the ranger wont change the range when I press the touchpads anymore.
Any ideas?
#6
CurrentRanger / Re: Measuring current and volt...
Last post by Felix - October 22, 2026, 02:53:17 PMI would recommend doing a dual measurement using a certain trigger generated by the DUT (like a digital HIGH on a pin when it wakes up).
Then you use that to synchronize the two measurements.
Otherwise I would recommend using a differential probe since the oscilloscope is now the common ground reference to the two current+voltage measurements.
Then you use that to synchronize the two measurements.
Otherwise I would recommend using a differential probe since the oscilloscope is now the common ground reference to the two current+voltage measurements.
#7
CurrentRanger / Measuring current and voltage ...
Last post by resonant_frequency - October 21, 2026, 01:22:24 PMHi I'm thinking of buying a current ranger but wanted to see if there is a way to measure voltage and current with an oscilloscope without dangerous ground loops. I am trying to measure a floating DUT with a floating power supply using a grounded non isolated oscilloscope.
I believe the naive approach - measure the current ranger with one probe and then measure the voltage over the DUT with another probe - produces a ground loop as the scope ground leads are at different potentials (DUT+ and DUT- respectively).
Would it work to swap the leads of voltage probe so the ground lead is at DUT+ and the measurement side is at DUT-? No right? Because the current ranger sense - is different from the current ranger load output, right?
Or do I need a differential probe to measure both the current and DUT voltage at the same time?
I believe the naive approach - measure the current ranger with one probe and then measure the voltage over the DUT with another probe - produces a ground loop as the scope ground leads are at different potentials (DUT+ and DUT- respectively).
Would it work to swap the leads of voltage probe so the ground lead is at DUT+ and the measurement side is at DUT-? No right? Because the current ranger sense - is different from the current ranger load output, right?
Or do I need a differential probe to measure both the current and DUT voltage at the same time?
#8
General topics / Re: Help with TP5110 breakout ...
Last post by Felix - August 22, 2026, 09:58:14 PMI think you have it setup correctly for One Shot. For reference, the OneShot works like this, as also explained on the product page:
OneShot - powers the load/MCU one time until either:
- a DONE signal is received from the load to shutdown sooner than the delay
- delay expires (without DELAY signal)
- an ON! signal from or button press from the user restores power and cycle repeats
- useful for setting a system power-off delay (ex. a 1A load needs to be shutdown after precisely 1 hour)
- Cut the jumper on the bottom and either solder jumper the OneShot side or use the provided header and jumper for easy switching during development
You'd want to press ON! to enable power and start a cycle, I believe this is self explanatory. It sounds like you also checked the tactile button does work.
What is the expected load that the lights draw from the battery?
I'd like to see close up photos of the board top and bottom, before making too many assumptions. The marks on the chips should be legible.
OneShot - powers the load/MCU one time until either:
- a DONE signal is received from the load to shutdown sooner than the delay
- delay expires (without DELAY signal)
- an ON! signal from or button press from the user restores power and cycle repeats
- useful for setting a system power-off delay (ex. a 1A load needs to be shutdown after precisely 1 hour)
- Cut the jumper on the bottom and either solder jumper the OneShot side or use the provided header and jumper for easy switching during development
You'd want to press ON! to enable power and start a cycle, I believe this is self explanatory. It sounds like you also checked the tactile button does work.
What is the expected load that the lights draw from the battery?
I'd like to see close up photos of the board top and bottom, before making too many assumptions. The marks on the chips should be legible.
#9
General topics / Re: Help with TP5110 breakout ...
Last post by sparky - August 22, 2026, 05:54:11 AMI can't view your attachment
#10
General topics / Help with TP5110 breakout wiri...
Last post by algebravoyager - August 19, 2026, 12:54:29 PMHi everyone, I'm hoping this forum is still somewhat active and I get a response at some point. I would really appreciate some help.
Background
I'm creating a night light for my kids. They have existing fairy lights which just turn on and off. I wanted to use the TP5110 board I bought from LPL to run it as such: one button press turns it on for 15mins, then turns it off after. (Which is why I ended up buying the LPL breakout - because we could change the timer type).
Problem
It's not working. If i connect the battery pack directly to the lights, they power on perfectly. If I wire them (per diagram below), I can see the power goes to the board (by measuring the voltage at VIN and GND with a multimeter), I can know that the button registers (by measuring continuity via multimeter between DELAY and VIN). However, despite button presses, LOAD and GND don't seem to send anything.
Steps to recreate
The ask
Please help me identify where it's gone wrong! Caveat: I slept through all my physics/electronics classes when I was younger so my understanding is electronics understanding is minimal at best. It also explains the diagram.
Thanks in advance!
Background
I'm creating a night light for my kids. They have existing fairy lights which just turn on and off. I wanted to use the TP5110 board I bought from LPL to run it as such: one button press turns it on for 15mins, then turns it off after. (Which is why I ended up buying the LPL breakout - because we could change the timer type).
Problem
It's not working. If i connect the battery pack directly to the lights, they power on perfectly. If I wire them (per diagram below), I can see the power goes to the board (by measuring the voltage at VIN and GND with a multimeter), I can know that the button registers (by measuring continuity via multimeter between DELAY and VIN). However, despite button presses, LOAD and GND don't seem to send anything.
Steps to recreate
- 1. Cut the connection between the solder pads on the back to disable continuous mode. This was the middle and right pads.
- 2. Solder the left and middle pad together to bridge them, enabling one shot mode
- 3. Tested that it worked by measuring continuity from the two pin holes at the top (middle and right, the ones that say "one shot"), and the multimeter beeps.
- 4. Wire it up as per the diagram below
The ask
Please help me identify where it's gone wrong! Caveat: I slept through all my physics/electronics classes when I was younger so my understanding is electronics understanding is minimal at best. It also explains the diagram.
Thanks in advance!